
(lass 
Book 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



.\ ^v 



o 4^ 



^ X^ FROM 

tV^ NEW YORK 



TO THE 



GOLDEN GATES. 



BY 

MARVIN F. WOOD. 



NEW YORK : 

HK Popular Printing Company 

1882 






KnUrtd according to Act qf ('ongrexK, in the year 1882, hy Mabvin F. tfi 
the Office of the Librarian of ('onffrtsx, at Watitiington. D. *'. 



If 



Jti^ 



mm 



NEW YORK 



GOLDEN GATES. 




View of Salt Lake Cn v, 



I 



IN TRUE AFFECTION, 



THE AUTHOR, 



;his beloved wife. 



INTRODUCTORY. 

Business, simply, occasioned my sudden departure 
from New York City to San Francisco, California, and, 
with purely business thoughts intent, I commenced 
to make preparations for my journey, with the very 
best companion to be found in the world. 

These preparations were brief enough, for, although 
there are those among usr who remember the time 
when a mere trip to Albany was undertaken with 
many misgivings, and after very careful arrange- 
ments, some indeed, of the most cautious, putting all 
their worldly affairs into proper shape before they 
would trust themselves to the perils of the voyage, 
the New Yorker of to-day thinks no more of starting 
off to San Francisco, California, a distance not far 
short of three thousand miles and about as far distant 
as London or Paris, than he does, we might almost 
say, of crossing one of our rivers on a ferry-boat. 

In the most unromantic and matter of fact manner 
I began to take a note or two on the way -mere facts, 
jotted down in a terse and dry way; for instance: 
" Got to Buffalo at — p.m." Harsh as nails, is it not ? 

"Changed cars at junction " — " passed station" 

"stopped for dinner at ," and so on. By degrees, 

however, the beauties and excitements of the journey 
thaw one out of one's prosy method and the mere 



6 A Trip to San P'rancisco. 

notes are extended to descriptions of things and 
places. 

Still these notes were crude enough, enlarged 
though they became, but at the same time they con- 
tained considerable information of an interesting and 
improving nature, and, since they were writren, I 
have occasionally come across them amongst piles ' of 
papers and documents stored away. In glancing 
through these notes, lately, my memory was pleasant"^ 
ly stirred, and I resolved to find time to put them in 
such shape as to become useful as a guide— not, of 
course, a thoroughly practical and business-like one, 
for of these we have many, possibly too many by not 
a few, as thousands who have been carried to the very 
borders of lunacy in striving to follow and understand 
their ridiculous ambiguities could testify— but a 
chatty, friendly narration to be put into the' hands of 
those who perchance may have to travel the same 
road. , 

This I have attempted to do, and, begging the reader 
to remember that matters which at home are appar- 
ently of the most trivial nature are magnified into 
subjects of importance to the traveller— I refer to the 
neophyte and not to the old roadster— I place my 
little story of travel, not unhesitatingly, in the pub- 
lisher's hands. 



A Trip to San Francisco. 



A TRIP TO SAN FRANCISCO. 



My wife having decided to accompany me, through 
tickets to San Francisco were procured, with a sleeping 
section to Chicago, and we left New York, on the 
twenty-fifth of September 1879, by the 8:30 p. m. 
express, arriving at Syracuse for breakfast; and it 
may here be noted as a not insignificant fact that after 
partaking of that meal, good breakfasts and we were 
strangers for the rest of the journey. 

We were soon whirled away from the level site once 
known as Corinth, but for more than sixty years as 
Syracuse, and at 12:40 p. m. we reached Buffalo, 
having traveled just 441 1 miles since leaving New 
York City. 

Our car having been transferred here to the Lake 
Shore & Michigan Southern R. K., we soon left this 
centre of vast manufacturing interests, with, it is safe 
to say, at least its 120,000 souls, behind us, getting 
to Cleveland in time for supper, which was well 
served, and we were allowed time to enjoy it. Meals 
to the traveler are very important matters, and as at 
Buffalo, the great dinner station, we were not treated 
very handsomely in the refreshment line, Cleveland's 
hospitality was greatly apx^reciated. This town, which 
has the reputation of being one of the most beautiful 
in the United States, is just 603 miles from New York 
City; so that we had now travelled about one-fifth of 
our journey. 

At 8 a.m. on the 26th we entered the station of that 
great railroad centre of the West, Chicago, and, find- 
ing that we should have to wait two hours and a half 



8 A Trip to San Francisco. 

for our westward bound train, we visited one or two 
l)laces of imp(jrtance, in spite of tlie very muddy 
streets. Chicago was never remarkable for its cleanly 
higliways and a rain storm during the night had made 
them disagreeable indeed. 

To a commercial mind the vast dry goods' establish- 
ment of Messrs. Field, Leiter & Co., now Marshall, 
Field & Co., is an object of interest, and, as we con- 
sider the immense mercantile facilities of this city, it 
is somewhat difficult to realize that not more than 
eighty-seven years ago, on that very site, the United 
States government obtained from the Indians six 
acres of ground for a stockade fort to protect the 
traders ! 

The percentage of visitors to Chicago for mere 
pleasure is comparatively small, but it may be stated 
on very good authority that there are twenty thou- 
sand arrivals every month in the principal hotels of 
the city, with its poi)iilation of about 300,000. 

Now for our long day's journey on the Chicago, 
Kock Island and Pacific R. R. through the State of 
Illinois. We passed no stations of much importanc^e; 
on every side were seen vast fields of corn, but not 
much foliage, although we fiew past many pretty 
prairie houses in the midst of picturesque bits of 
woodland. The entire country journeyed through 
now was almost a plain, and we did not regret that 
the monotony (^f the journey was interrupted by a 
very well served dinner on a "restaurant car."' 

The veteran traveler may smile at these occasional 
allusions to refection and its times and modes of serv- 
ing and quality, but we are writing for the infonua- 
tion of the novice and not for the "old stager,'' be it 
understood. 

Rock Island station came to view at six p.m. The 
town is situated some distance off. The island is 
worthy of a few descriptive words. The city is situ- 



A Trip to San Fraxcisco. 9 

ated on the east bank of the Mississippi river, and the 
island is three miles long and lies at the foot of the 
Upper Rapids. It presents a perpendicular front of 
limesione about thirty feet high, is partly covered 
with woods, park-like and attractive. 

We next crossed the Mississippi river over a fine 
bridge one mile in length and connecting Rock Island 
with the very pretty town of Davenport, Iowa. 

After a good night's rest we found ourselves at 
Council Bluffs, but not before a contumacious cow 
got in the way of our train. Fortunately the little 
episode ended better for us than the cow, as we did 
not jump the track, and as she would not do so she 
was killed. 

Council Bluffs is in the western part of Iowa, near- 
ly three miles from the Missouri river, and having a 
population of 15,000. 

This place takes its name from the fact that in 1804 
Mr, Lewis Clark, the explorer, held council with the 
Indians at that point and thus christened it. 

Here we fell in with pleasant company, a young 
married couple from Boston, We had time to pur- 
chase a lunch and to enjoy it preparatory to the great 
transfer two miles west, and where all passengers, 
baggage and mails are transferred to the cars of the 
Union Pacific R. R. This company has erected a 
large building here for the transaction of all necessary 
business. The eastern roads terminate here. 

We now cross the Missouri river and arrive at 
Omaha, which is situated on the western bank of the 
river, on a plateau fifty feet above, and has a popu- 
lation of 24,000, The main offices of the Union Pacific 
R.R. are located here. 

Sleejiing accommodation having been secured to 
Ogden, we left Omaha at noon and passed the follow- 
ing stations : Summit Siding, Gilmore, Papillion and 
Millard, 



10 A Tkii' to San Francisco. 

Elkhorn, the next station, is on the east bank of the 
Elkhorn River, wliich is about 300 miles in length. 
Fishing and hunting are excellent in tliis section, the 
wild turkey, deer and antelope abounding. 

Waterloo Valley and Riverside are small side sta- 
tions. 

Stopping at Fremont to dine, not at all badly, either, 
we have time to learn that this little town already 
numbers 3,500 souls; a quiet place, situated three 
miles north of the Platte river. 

From Fremont we pass up this river, which can be 
traced by the timber along its banks and quickly 
leave behind us : Ames, North Bend, Rogers, Schuy- 
ler's, Richland, Columbus, Jackson, Silver Creek, 
Clark's, Lone Tree, Chapman's, and Lockwood. 

At Grand Island there is a short stop for supjier, 
and then Alta, Wood River, Shelton, Gibbon and 
Shelby are passed. Next in the list is Kearney junc- 
tion, named after the old fort nearby, and where the 
Burlington & Missouri River R. R. and the Denver 
& St. Joseph R.R. join with the Union Pacific R.R. 
Stevenson, Elm Creek, Overton, Josselyn, Plum 
Creek, Coyote, Cozurt, Willow Island, Warren and 
Brady Island are unimportant points, but McPher- 
son, situated five miles from the Platte River is a 
military station. The Fort is situated on the south 
side of the Platte River, near Cotton Wood Springs. 
Thence we proceed to Gamutt, North Platte City, 
Nichols, O'Fallin Blufi's, Dexter, Alkali, Rusco, 
Ogalolla, Brule, Big Springs, Barton, Julesburg Chap- 
pell, Lodge Pole and Cotton. 

The countiy just crossed is i)rincipally devoted to 
stock-raising. People at the small stations live in 
underground and log huts. 

At 8:10 we airive at Sidney for breakfast, poor fare 
for a dollar. The town has a population of 1,500. 
Here passengers leave the train for Deadwood and 



A|Teip to San Francisco. 11 

the Black Hills, a distance of 267 miles by stage; fare 
about five dollars. 

Leaving Sidney we pass Brownson, Patten, Bennett, 
Antelope, Adams. Buslinell, Pine Bluffs, Tracy, Eg- 
bert, Burns, Hillsdale, Atkins and Arclier. Next 
comes the Prairie Dog City. Many hundreds of the 
little creatures from which the place takes its name 
are found in colonies. Alarmed at our approach they 
either ran into their holes or sat up on their hind legs. 

We arrived at Cheyenne at 1:40 p.m. for dinner. 
This is the Capital of Wyoming Territory, and the 
largest town between Omaha and Ogden. 

The country is quite level and but little cultivated. 
Not very far from the station is the millitary Fort D. 
A. Russell, and the rather dull scene was not a little 
enlivened by the presence of a small comj)any of the 
brave defenders of our country. 

We did not tarry long at Cheyenne but were swift- 
ly carried past the little stations of Hazard and Otto. 

Already some of the grand features of the far West 
are claiming our attention. Five miles west of Otto, 
Granite Canyon is in view, and presently we have the 
novel sensation of running through several long snow 
sheds, passing Buford station. 

On and up we go, scarcely realizing that we are 
thousands of feet above lowlands passed so recently, 
until at length Sherman, the highest point on the 
Rocky Mountains, is reached. 

This lofty and sublime point was named after and 
in honor of our distinguished soldier Sherman, the 
tallest General ia the service, and it reaches an eleva- 
tion of 8,245 feet above the level of the sea. 

We have travelled now a distance of 549 miles since 
leaving Omaha, and are yet 1,865 miles this side of 
San Francisco. Far off but plainly visible. Pike's 
Peak points to heaven. 

We are beginning to feel strongly the effect of the 



12 A Trip to San Fraxcisco. 

light atmosphere on our lungs ^ and which causes a 
difficulty in breathing. 

For many miles the country presents a most deso- 
late appearance; notliing but barren plain and rock — 
not a tree nor shrub — as far as the eye can reach. 
But not far distant the antelope, deer and elk are 
found in herds, and l^ears, sage hens and grouse 
abound. 

At this point a Mr. Hill of Boston, two military 
officers and tlie writer were invited to ride on the en- 
gine, that we might have the pleasure of an unob- 
structed view of the, to us, novel features ahead. After 
traveling down on the western slope of the Rocky 
Mountains for a few miles, it was suggested that we 
should try the effect on our nerves of a ride on the 
cow-catcher of the engine. This is not quite so alarm- 
ing a feat as it would seem to the uninitiated. The 
engineer provided us with a cushion, and at the next 
stopping place we comfortably ensconced ourselves on 
our novel vehicle, and with somewhat of a gasp pre- 
pared for the exciting ride. 

As the great engines, snorting like huge war horses, 
moved down the mountain's iron road there were 
none who did not feel a little nervous, but we gradu- 
ally became accustomed to the position. However 
there was excitement which we did not expect in store 
for us. Suddenly rounding a point, we were shroud- 
ed in darkness. The engine's whistle and other noises, 
which in that clear air were awe-insi)iring, almost 
suggested the war whoop and onslaught of a band of 
Indians, but we passed through the long snow shed, 
with an occasional glimmer of light from an opening 
above, quite safely. 

Scarcely had we congratulated ourselves on emerg- 
ing into broad day-light, when another turn in the 
road brought in view, not many hundred yards ahead, 
another large cow, standing on the track quite as 



A Trip to San Francisco. 13 

composedly as if railroads were tlie legitimate abiding 
places of its gentle kind. 

It did not take more than a second to determine 
that if we should come in contact with the animal our 
chances of escape from disaster were slim indeed. 
*' Every man for himself !" shouted the engineer. 

In an instant we were scrambling up on the engine 
— no very easy task for those not born and bred on 
such an apparatus to accomplish while it is in motion. 
The air-brakes were applied and the cow alarmed by 
the engine's whistle, ambled off, saving her life which 
a few moments before the most reckless insurance 
agent would have rejected a i)olicy on with a heavy 
premium. 

Emboldened by our successful undertaking the 
ladies presently enjoyed a ride in the cab, and now 
have the satisfaction of being able to recount the really 
unusual experience of riding down the Rocky Moun- 
tains on an engine. 

Sometimes we crossed bridges one hundred feet 
high, then shot through imposing canyons and nu- 
merous snow sheds. 

The experiment may be considered by most cau- 
tious persons as very rash; but really one is paid for 
temerit}'' in mounting an engine; for the scenery is 
grand and one has the opportunity afforded him of 
viewing the magnificent scenery on either side of the 
railroad, besides an unobstructed front view of objects 
of interest, sometimes awe-inspiring in the distance, 
and marvellous always, as we draw near and pass 
them. 

Next is the station of Red Buttes, so called from 
the many large buttes of sand si one which are found 
there. Some of these rise to a height of one thousand 
feet and are extremely imposing in appearance. 
Some resemble castellated buildings, and are of 
fantastic shape. Others seem like mountain steppes. 



14 A Trip to San Francisco. 

These passed we soon reach a station known as 
Fort Sanders, a military post of the same name not 
being far distant. 

Next comes Laramie City, the county seat of Al- 
bany, Wyoming Territory, with a population of 4,000 
and quite an attractive place; the streets are laid out 
with care, it possesses a large hotel, public buildings, 
some fine residences, and a stream of spring water 
runs through the principal thoroughfares. 

The country is almost level, and far away on die 
plains are herds of antelopes, although some, timor- 
ous though their nature is usually, venture within 
rifle range and are not infrequently fired at by rail- 
road passengers. 

Passing Hovvells, Wyoming, Coo})er Lake, Look- 
out and Miser's stations we are allowed time for re- 
freshments at Rock Creek. A very poor supper was 
dished up and for which we were mulcted in the sum 
of one dollar per head. Tlie place was quite as poor 
and uninteresting as the meal and we were not sorry 
to resume our journey. 

Gliding past the stations of Wilcox and Como, the 
latter suggestive of a lake we did not descry, Ave soon 
found ourselves on the bridge which spans the Medi- 
cine Bow River. 

For a long time this stream was a noted resort for 
Indians. It may be tliat the "fire wagons," as they 
call the cars, had much to do with sending them 
avvay. 

The next point of particular interest is Fort Fred. 
Steele, a military post not far from the spot where 
war was being waged against the depredating Utes. 
Among our passengers were many military officers 
bound for the scene of action. 

During the night we passed several small side 
stations (as they are called) arriving at Green River 
for breakfast. Here, at least (in a gastronomic point 



A Trip to San Francisco. 17 

of view, ) we found our " oasis in tlie desert." By the 
by the hotel is called the Desert House, and we all 
felt that we had received oar deserts in the culinary 
line, and much refreshed were quite ready for another 
day's incessant rumbling of the cars. 

As we paid for our meal each passenger was handed 
a printed notice. Being unique of its kind, and as, 
doubtless, but very few have conned its witticisms 
and absurdities, I have transcribed it to these pages 
for the benefit of the majority of my friends, who 
have never yet smiled at its conceits. 

The Document. 

" This hotel has been built and arranged for the 
special comfort and convenience of summer boarders. 

"On arrival each guest will be asked how he likes 
the situation; and if he says the hotel ought to have 
been placed up on the knoll or down towards the vil- 
lage, the location of the house will be immediately 
changed. 

' ' Corner front room only up one flight for each 
guest. 

"Baths, gas, water-closet, hot and cold water, 
laundry, telegraph, restaurant, fire-alarm, bar-room, 
billiard table, daily papers, sewing machine, grand 
piano, a clergyman and all modern, conveniences in 
every room. 

"Meals every minute, if desired, and consequently 
no second table. 

"English, French and German dictionaries furnished 
every guest, to make ujd a bill of fare as he may de- 
sire, without regard to the hill affair afterwards at 
the ofiice. 

"Waiters of any nationality and color desired. 
Every waiter furnished with a button-hole bouquet, 
full-dress suit, ball- tablets and his hair parted in the 
middle. 



18 A Trip to San Francisco. 

"Every guest will have the best seat in the dining- 
hall, and the best waiter in the house. 

" Any guest not getting his breakfast red-hot, or 
experiencing a delay of sixteen seconds after giving 
his order will please mention the fact at the office, 
and the cooks and waiters will be blown from the 
mouth of the cannon in front of the hotel at once. 

"Children will be welcomed wiih delight and are 
requested to bring hoopsticks and hawkeyes with 
which to bang the rosewood furniture especially pro- 
vided for that purpose, and peg-tops to spin on the 
velvet carpets. 

" They will be allowed to bang on the piano at all 
hours, yell in the halls, slide down the bannisters, fall 
down stairs, carry away desserts enough for a small 
family in their pockets at dinner, and make them- 
selves as disagreeable as the fondest mother can de- 
sire. 

"Washing allowed in rooms, and ladies giving an 
order to 'put me on a flat iron,' will be put on one at 
any hour of the day or night. 

"A discreet waiter who belongs to the Masons, Odd 
Fellows, Knights of Pythias, and who was never 
known to even rell the time of day, has been employed 
to carry milk-punches and hot toddies to the ladies' 
rooms in the evening. 

" Every lady will be considered the belle of the 
house and row boys will answer the bell promptly. 
Should any row boy fail to appear at guests' door 
with a pitcher of ice water, more towels, a gin cock- 
tail and pen and ink and paper before the guest's 
hand has left the bell knob, he will be branded 
"Front" on his forehead and be imprisoned for life. 

"The office clerk has been carefully selected to 
please everybody and can lead in prayer, play dmw 
poker, match worsted at the village store, shake for 
drinks any hour of the day or night, play billiards, 



A Trip to San Francisco. 19 

good waltzer and can dance the German; make a 
fourth at euchre, amuse children, repeat the Beecher 
trial from memory, is a good judge of horses, as a 
railway or steamboat reference is far superior to Ap- 
pleton's or any body else's guide. Will flirt with any 
young lady and not mind being cut dead ' when pa 
comes down.' Dont mind being damned any more 
than a Connecticut river. Can room forty people in 
the best room in the house when the hotel is full, at- 
tend to the annunciator and answer questions in He- 
brew, Greek, Choctaw, Irish or any other polite 
language at the same moment without turning a hair. 

"Dogs allowed in any room in the house, including 
the w(h)ine room. 

' ' Gentlemen can drink, smoke, swear, chew, gamble, 
tell shady stories, stare at the new arrivals, and in- 
dulge in any other innocent amusements common to 
watering jDlaces, in any part of the hotel. 

" The proprietor will be happy to hear that some 
other hotel is the best house in the country. 

"Special attention given to parties who can give in- 
formation as to how these things are done in ' Yew- 
rujD.' 

"The proprietor will take it as a personal affront if 
any guest on leaving should fail to dispute the bill, 
tell him that he is a swindler, the house a barn, the 
table wretched, the wines oils, and he, the guest, was 
never so imposed upon in his life before, will never 
stop there again and that he means to warn his 
friends." 

The above document has caused many a smile you 
may be sure, and the landlord mast owe a debt of 
gratitude to the lunatic who composed it, since it has 
proved a capital advertisement. The Desert house 
with its surroundings is very attractive to summer 
boarders — people who have time to recreate and money 



20 A Trip to San Francisco. 

galore, to whom no price is too high, so that com- 
fort and the best of everything be obtainable. 

It has been said that "time and tide wait for none," 
We may also with truth say that "time, tide and 
trains" wait for none. Every traveller can appreciate 
the correctness of the statement. Our train most cer- 
tainly would not have waited for us. Obeying the 
summons to "get aboard" weleft Green River station 
and its wonderful hotel behind lis and crossed Green 
River, the longest branch of the Colorado of the west. 
The water has a deep green appearance — hence, of 
course, its name. 

To our left are bluffs hundreds of feet high, and we 
are going np a grade, soon reaching an elevation of 
eight thousand feet, the highest point on the Nintah. 

This side of Hilliard our next stopping place, is a 
soda spring, and our train was allowed to stoj^in order 
that the passengers might have the unusual oppor- 
tunity of drinking from a natural soda fountain. The 
water is so strong that it has been found impossible 
to ship it in bottles; they always burst. After leaving 
Hilliard we passed Millis station and reached Evas- 
ton for dinner, the fare being very inferior to the per- 
petual spread of the Desert house. 

In the limestone here are found fine specimens of i:)et- 
rified fish, reminding us of ages past when some earth- 
quake or other disturbance of nature had turned 
rivers from their courses, buried mountains and up- 
heaved valleys. 

It has been said that the scenery in this neighbor- 
hood is the giandest along the entire road, and we 
were by special permission again allowed to mount 
the engine that we might lose none of the beauties of 
the route. 

Crossing the dividing line of Wyoming and Utah 
we passed through the longest tunnel on the road, 
(800 feet). 



A Trip to San Francisco. 23 

It is difficult to find words that shall properly ex- 
press the sensations created in the minds of those 
who first become acquainted with the mighty Can- 
yons of the West. 

Echo Canyon which we are just entering is awful in 
its grandeur. Huge clifl's hang over us hundreds of 
feet high, looking as if by their own weight alone 
they would break from their holding, tumble 
down and crush us to powder. 

A thousand feet above us can be seen the fortifica- 
tions erected by the Mormons in 1857 to defend this 
pass in the Canyon against the Government troops. 

Among the objects of interest is Pulpit Rock. This 
is a very appropriate name for it looks as if it not 
only had a place for the parson but a seat for the 
now obsolete clerk below. 

Echo City, near by, is situated in Summit Co., 
Utah, and is a settlement of log huts. Entering 
Weber Canyon we pass the one thousand mile tree 
which is just one thousand miles west of Omaha and 
reach the Devil's Slide, an extraordinary freak of 
nature. From the common plain surface rise two 
ridges of granite rock running parallel with each 
other and reaching from the base to the summit of 
rhe mountain. The ridges are six feet apart, leaving 
room for the " old gentleman " to slide down easily 
from top to bottom, if he were so disposed, and the 
snow or ice were in proper form. Weber Canyon, as 
it may be supposed, is situated in Weber County, 
Utah Territory. The Union Pacific R. R. passes 
through this County from south to north. Ogden 
City, which we are now nearing, is the County seat. 
The river of the same name empties itself into Great 
Salt Lake, and the Union Pacific R. R. follows the 
stream in Morgan County. 

The scenery hereabouts is of the wildest, roughest 
and most forbidding kind. Cliffs of all shapes tower 



24 A Trip to San P^i^axcisco. 

above us in every direction. The mountains here are 
a portion of the Wassatch range. Fr(jni the harsli- 
ness of this scene we i)ass into the softness of the 
Salt Lake Valley, and soon pull up at Ogden, where 
the Union Pacific R.R. tenninates and the Central 
Pacific R.R. begins. At this point also jxissengers 
alight for Salt Lake City. 

Here we change cars and secure sleepers for San 
Francisco direct. 

Ogden has a population of 6,500, the greater por- 
tion are Moimons, who govern the place. The city 
nestles in a lovely valley from which the mountains 
rise on every side, their snowy caps contrasting beau- 
tifully with the brilliant verdure and the floral beau- 
ties of the valley. The inhabitants have utilized the 
waters of the river Ogden, wliicli they have caused to 
flow continually along either side of the streets, mak- 
ing the air cool and keei)ing the gutters clean. 

At Ogden we get our supper, travel all night with- 
out a stop and arrive at Elko by breakfast time. Here 
we are surrounded by Indians — there are plenty of 
them in this vicinity. They hang around the station 
and ride on the train free of charge, in fact they are 
treated by the whites as children, but unhappily they 
are not as childlike as they seem, as Uncle Sam s ex- 
chequer can plainly show. 

Soon we are rushing between the lofty palisades of 
the Humboldt. Huge boulders torn off and driven 
down by the mighty force of the storm are scattered 
about and add to the dreariness of the scene. 

Winnemucca, situated on the Humboldt River, is 
named after a Piute chief whom we saw at the station. 
Attired in the uniform of the United States 
army and a high silk hat, he was an object of great 
interest to all. It is said he is eighty years old. 

Winnemucca is four liundred and sixtv-two miles 



A Trip to San Frat^cisco. 25 

east of San Francisco, is surrounded by good farm 
lands, and has a population of several hundred. 

At Humboldt, a small settlement in the Humboldt 
Valley and the eastern terminus of the great desert, 
we take supper. This truly beautiful spot is sur- 
rounded by snow capped mountains. 

Now we are indeed drawing to our journey's end. 
We cross the desert, a distance of forty miles, and 
begin to ascend the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The 
road is almost a series of snow sheds, one being forty- 
five miles in length, a monotonous journey — just 
like passing through an ordinary tunnel with its oc- 
casional air-holes. As the light glimmers from each 
of these we are in hopes that we are about to dart into 
the open country, but are many times disappointed. 

Magnificent Cape Horn, which casts its shadows in- 
to the valley beneath, is one of the features of the road, 
which is cut into the mountain nearly two thousand 
feet from its base. When they were surveying for 
the railroad it was found necessary to lower the en- 
gineer with a rope, the mountain being far too steep 
for a foothold. 

The train stops at the Horn for a short time in order 
that the passengers may enjoy the almost unrivalled 
beauty of the scene. At a depth of nearly two thou- 
sand feet is the green, peaceful valley, with its quiet 
stream, while huge mountains rise upon each side. 

At Colfax, the next station, we descend the moun- 
tain and the climate grows by degrees from cold to 
mild — from mild to warm and warmer, until at length 
our eyes are gladdened and surprised at the sight of 
youthful venders of California grapes, large baskets- 
ful, luscious looking and going for a song. 

We are now in California! 

Sacramento is reached at twenty-five minutes after 
ten a. m. 



26 A Trip To San Francisco. 

This city is located on the east side of the Sacra- 
mento River and has a population of 22,000. 

The country becomes apparently almost level, re- 
sembling very much our eastern plains in appeai*ance, 
during several hours' ride after leaving Sacramento 
City, and there was nothing presented to our view of 
a particularly interesting nature. 

Oakland is the next and last stop on our long 
journey. 

Before reaching this place, however, we run close 
to the bay of San Francisco, and again there is a 
marked change in the atmosphere. The air, which 
was warm, soft and bahuy, becomes cool, almost raw, 
as we approach the Pacific Ocean. 

Oaklands is reached at five p.m. and from this spot 
we get a view of our destination. 

A large double- decked ferry boat awaits us and we 
board her. In thirty minutes she lands in San Fran- 
cisco, and after a drive of a few minutes we arrive at 
the great Palace Hotel. 

Only those who have travelled this route could aj)- 
preciate our satisfaction at being at our journey' send. 
Tired, dirty and hungry, we quietly and thankfully 
availed ourselves of our new found comforts and 
sought rest once more in a motionless bed. 

It is not the intention of the writer to attempt to 
give any particular account of what he saw in San 
Francisco, but it might be considered abrupt were he 
not to say something about the city. 

The populalion is over 300,000. It is situated at 
the northern end of the southern peninsula, which 
separates the bay from the ocean. Between the north- 
ern and southern peninsula is the Golden Gate, which 
is one mile in width, thirty feet deep, and connecting 
the ocean with the bay. 

A large portion of the business district of the city 
was built upon made ground, while rlie fashionable 




Rounding Cape Horn. 



A Trip to San Francisco. 29 

residences are located on the hill, a cable road con- 
necting this aristocratic section with the more plebean. 

The streets resemble in a great degree, those of New 
York City, but the houses, on account of the numer- 
ous earthquakes that have occurred, are built of wood. 

The Palace Hotel, at which we put up, is doubtless 
the largest in the world. It occupies an entire block 
and is seven stories high. It has a central court-yard 
one hundred and forty-four feet long by eighty-four 
feet wide, with a carriage drive rigiit through. At 
the time of our visit this monster hotel numbered 
among its guests ex-president Grant. 

Soon after our arrival we witnessed a sight which 
will not be forgotten as long as memory lasts. A Mr. 
Woodward, proprietor of a place of amusement called 
Woodward's Gardens, invited us to witness a balloon 
ascension, and after examining his beautiful flowers, 
which bloom, many of them, at all seasons of the 
year, we joint the excited throng around the balloon, 
which was an old one and of small caiDacity. 

The Aeronaut and Professor Williams (who is also 
manager of the Gardens,) were to make the ascent. 
Although the wind was blowing with the force of a 
gale, and it was considered a dangerous attemjDt, 
despite the entreaties of those present, the order was 
given to "let go" and away they sailed. 

It was soon evident that the balloon was overloaded, 
as they almost scraped the fence in mounting. It 
managed to clear several houses, but scarcely rose 
above them, soon coming in contact Avith the tele- 
graph wires. It was supposed that the wires cut some 
of the ropes which sustained the basket, for after soar- 
ing a little higher the ropes broke, and the doomed 
men fell to the ground. It need scarcely be added 
that death was instantaneous. This is truly a sad re- 
miniscence. 

The churches and theatres do not bear comparison 



30 A Trip to San Francisco. 

with eastern edifices of a like character, but some are 
handsome, and show signs of architectural talent in 
their construction. 

The climate of San Francisco is very peculiar. 
From May until November rain is a stranger, and 
everything becomes covered with a fine white dust. 
The trade winds are very strong and chilling. At 
four p.m. a heavy fog settles over the city and over- 
coats are necessary. 

, The rainy season commences in November and con- 
tinues until May. There are flowers in abundance 
and grass continues green all the winter. 

I must not forget to mention that, although the ma- 
jority of the residents are very polite, there is one who 
very unceremoniously forces himself upon your ac- 
quaintance as soon as you reach the State line, and 
you find it almost impossible to shake him oflf until 
you become a permanent resident, when he seems to 
tire of you. This persistent creature is Mr. Flea. He 
is something enormous. When the stranger gets his 
first bite he says to himself "bed-bugsl" but he soon 
finds out his mistake. The bite is very severe and 
Mr. Flea's other name is legion. 

No vulgar pennies are used in California. They 
call our shilling a "bit" and nothing is sold for less 
than five cents. 

The Cliff House, situated a few miles from, fhe city, 
is quite a point of interest. From its balconies are 
observed sea lions in numbers on the rocks close by. 

Oakland, already referred to, is a really beautiful 
little town containing many fine residences. Flowers 
bloom from January to December, and ice is never 
seen. 

On our return trip we visited Salt Lake City, taking 
the Utah Central road at Ogden, travelling thirty 
miles along the banks of the Salt Lake before reach 
ing the City, which is located at the base of the 



A Trip to San Francisco. 31 

Wasatch mountains and has a poiDulation of about 
twenty thousand. It is divided into twenty-one wards, 
each controlled by a deacon. 

The streets are wide and bordered with trees, and 
streams from the mountains run through them. The 
stores of the Mormons are distinguished from those of 
the Gentiles, if in no other way, by the letters Z. C. 
M. I. over each door— meaning the Zion Co-operative 
Mercantile Institution. The idea of this is to secure 
Mormon patronage. 

We visited several of Brigham Young's residences, 
one of which is very handsome and commodious. The 
Tabernacle is an uncouth but monstrous building sur- 
rounded by a high wall. It is two hundred and fifty 
feet in length by one hundred and fifty in width. 
The roof is supported by forty six columns of sand 
stone. It is used for what the Mormons call "wor- 
ship," and meetings of a secular nature. It will seat 
eight thousand persons, and a whisper can be dis- 
tinctly heard from end to end. The organ is the 
largest in the world. 

The Temple, which is close to the Tabernacle, has 
been five years in course of construction. It is im- 
posing because of its size but cannot be called hand- 
some. There is also a Temple for winter services. 

Houses with several front doors are frequently seen; 
each door counts for a wife, so that we learn how 
many of these luxuries the owner possesses. 

The Mormons generally are very reticent about their 
church affairs. They live in wooden houses painted 
a light color, and some are quite neat and pretty. 

The Salt Lake, it is said, is fully one third salt, and 
those living near it say it is drying up fast. 

In conclusion I would state that the most desirable 
time to visit California is during April or May. Every- 
thing then has a fresh and green aspect, and but little 



32 A TpwIP to San Fuaxcisco. 

dust will be encountered. The climate of San F'ran- 
cisco is very severe on the lungs, and those troubled 
with lung complaints should confine their visit to the 
southern portion of the State only. 



